Learning At The Master's Feet

The Age

Tuesday February 12, 2008

Jane Faulkner

Jane Faulkner talks to a patrono of chianti.

THE vista is unmistakably Tuscan. As far as you can see there are olive groves, verdant vineyards, cypresses stretching high out of the hills and alongside, an occasional historic building dotting the ancient terrain. That view from Fattoria di Felsina is utterly divine, agrees Giuseppe Mazzocolin. It's his backyard.

This productive fattoria, or farm, is at Felsina near Siena, with a heritage dating back to the Middle Ages. Naturally it includes estate wines, with the drawcard being exceptionally fine chianti. As director of this famous estate, there's nothing Mazzocolin enjoys more than talking about sangiovese. Just as well, considering he's making several appearances during the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival."

But it's important to focus on Felsina, not just the estate," he says, in explaining this great variety."

This is a farm. You see the area where we live, the villa, the cellar door, office and little church and then you recognise the context. And that is, people living where they are working can give something unique especially in relation to life. This is idyllic but it is vital we understand our vineyards. Our approach to viticulture is very important."

There are 11 vineyards making up 87 hectares of this 485-hectare property. Part of the context Mazzocolin refers to is how Felsina borders two wine denominations - Chianti Classico on one side and Chianti Colli Senesi on the other.

(Both are DOCGs - Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, Italy's top-quality wine designation, although quality can be a subjective if nebulous determination). What does this all mean at Fattoria di Felsina?

Firstly, it makes for some interesting drinking.

The history of chianti is as fascinating as it is complex and, without exception, it has probably been the most stylistically challenged wine. At one stage or another, white wine could be added to the blend, then only Tuscan varieties, followed by international ones. The law now requires, for example, Chianti Classico to contain no less than 80% sangiovese (it can be 100%), with the remainder comprising indigenous reds such as canaiolo or international varieties such as cabernet sauvignon.

But Fattoria di Felsina's two top Chianti Classicos are unadulterated.

They are pure sangiovese. More astonishing is the Fontalloro, an IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica or typical regional wine, which means it could be blended from different grapes grown anywhere in Tuscany) is 100% sangiovese and always has been. The fruit is from the Chianti Classico area and just outside it."

For our estate, our objective is to express the character of sangiovese, and we are very focused on that," says Mazzocolin.

In one sense, it's all about respecting and expressing the greatness of the variety and where it's grown. It's about maintaining sangiovese's purity, and that's why Mazzocolin, with winemaker Franco Bernabei, has never mixed those three wines with other varieties. He says when Fontalloro was created in 1983, as was the top Chianti Classico, a riserva known as Rancia, it was seen as heretical to make a pure sangiovese."

Am I a purist? I am in relation to learning about this grape, appreciating it for its typical Italian character. Nothing against those other varieties but I think sangiovese is the real Chianti Classico that must be preserved and respected."

One of the highlights of the festival is La Gala Italiana dinner at Grossi Florentino on March 3. It's a six-course Tuscan feast matched to seven Fattoria di Felsina wines presented by Mazzocolin and hosted by journalist George Negus. Quite appropriate, as Negus lived for a short time in Tuscany, writing The World from Italy - about football, food and politics. Mazzocolin is also a speaker at the Langham Melbourne MasterClass on March 1 and 2, in a session posing the question "Is sangiovese for sissies?" He's surprised anyone could suggest such a thing, considering the variety's pronounced tannins. And while there has been some bog-ordinary chianti made, certainly not at Fattoria di Felsina.

And proof is in the impressive lineup at the masterclass that includes the stunning Rancia and Fontalloro.

It also includes other top producers such as San Giusto, Castellare di Castellina and Isole e Olena.

Although some believe that sangiovese is Italy's greatest red, there are others who say the contender nudging it out of any spotlight is nebbiolo, specifically barolo and barbaresco from Piedmont in the north-west of the country. And to celebrate that variety, Alfio Cavallotto, oenologist from Fratelli Cavallotto, and Federico Ceretto, who looks after wine exports for the family business, will also wine and dine festival-goers with a series of dinners and tastings.

Cavallotto is making just one appearance, a dinner at Mirka at Tolarno Hotel on March 5 featuring two barolo - the bricco boschis and the estate's top wine, the riserva known as Vigna San Giuseppe.

At the Ceretto camp, Federico has a tasting planned on February 25 and a dinner the following night, which will showcase eight wines - current releases alongside aged barolo and barbaresco - at Enoteca Vino Bar. Barolo and barbaresco are incredibly tannic, although utterly charming wines, so tasting some with bottle age can make a world of difference. Federico's cousin, winemaker Alessandro Ceretto, has worked vintage in Australia and is expected to be at both events.

Just a warning, though: once you've developed a taste for top barolo or barbaresco, you will be hooked and there's no turning back.

Then again, the same goes for great sangiovese.

Jane Faulkner is a panellist at the Langham Melbourne MasterClass.

Langham Melbourne MasterClass - The Global Wine Experience is on March 1 and 2. Tickets: $400 for a day pass with individual sessions between $65 and $120. Bookings: sommeliers.com.au. The Cavallotto at Mirka dinner in St Kilda is on March 5 at 7.30pm, $160. Bookings 9417 7220.

The Ceretto wine tasting is on February 25 at 7pm, $49, at Enoteca Vino Bar in Carlton. The Ceretto barolo and barbaresco dinner, also at Enoteca Vino Bar, is on February 26, $220. Bookings 9389 7000.

© 2008 The Age

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